Day 12 Largs to Charlestown
Today was our longest day; we effectively did a coast to coast in one day, from the Clyde to the Forth. We had a relatively slow start; it being the last day of camping we did a fair amount of sorting out and finishing things off. The dew was quite heavy and with a dense cloud cover and little wind, there was little chance of getting our tent and other camping kit dry, but we tried.
So we actually started out at quarter to eleven, our latest start by some way. The initial part of the route was up the Noddsdale water valley, which started out as a lush, agricultural landscape with a diverse tree population. As we continued up we were all reminded of the Yorkshire dales, with bare grassy slopes dotted by sheep. Over the top and the similarity continued as we undulated past Lochs and Lochans. Then a vertiginous descent into the outskirts of Greenock where we were rewarded with views across the Clyde to the Trossachs and Western highlands.
Our route then wound through Greenock's suburbs, past tenements and blocks of flats until we got on to NCR75, initially on an old railway line. This kept us high on the hills above Greenock and Port Glasgow. After this was an enjoyable if undulating stretch that successfully avoided all the main roads. Eventually we found our way to the Erskine bridge, which was where we first encountered the hubbub of the big city. A quick zigzag through Erskine, including a quick visit to the Auchentoshan distillery (one of a few Lowland distilleries), where we had lunch. From there we found our way onto the towpath of the Clyde to Forth Canal.
We followed this almost from start to finish and we can say that 90% of the route was absolutely excellent. Rural despite passing through some big places, in increasingly good weather. Tail wind too. After 30 miles only stopping for the occasional photograph, we reached the Falkirk wheel, a modern marvel of the canal system. We had a brief refreshment stop and watched it do it’s thing a couple of times, then headed on as we realised we would not be arriving at our destination until after 6:30. The next bit of navigation was tricky as the previously well signed route became a bit sporadic, then the Kelpies were in front of us. I’ve seen many photos of them, but those had not spoiled the their impressive visual impact. We allowed ourselves a photo stop, then pressed on, now on NCR76 over the Kincardine bridge then scenically round the coast to our slightly eccentric first hotel stop of the trip. On arrival at 7:15 pm, we found that our support had been out on their bikes and happened to witness the undocking of the new Prince of Wales aircraft carrier in front of the new Forth Bridge.
Our route then wound through Greenock's suburbs, past tenements and blocks of flats until we got on to NCR75, initially on an old railway line. This kept us high on the hills above Greenock and Port Glasgow. After this was an enjoyable if undulating stretch that successfully avoided all the main roads. Eventually we found our way to the Erskine bridge, which was where we first encountered the hubbub of the big city. A quick zigzag through Erskine, including a quick visit to the Auchentoshan distillery (one of a few Lowland distilleries), where we had lunch. From there we found our way onto the towpath of the Clyde to Forth Canal.
We followed this almost from start to finish and we can say that 90% of the route was absolutely excellent. Rural despite passing through some big places, in increasingly good weather. Tail wind too. After 30 miles only stopping for the occasional photograph, we reached the Falkirk wheel, a modern marvel of the canal system. We had a brief refreshment stop and watched it do it’s thing a couple of times, then headed on as we realised we would not be arriving at our destination until after 6:30. The next bit of navigation was tricky as the previously well signed route became a bit sporadic, then the Kelpies were in front of us. I’ve seen many photos of them, but those had not spoiled the their impressive visual impact. We allowed ourselves a photo stop, then pressed on, now on NCR76 over the Kincardine bridge then scenically round the coast to our slightly eccentric first hotel stop of the trip. On arrival at 7:15 pm, we found that our support had been out on their bikes and happened to witness the undocking of the new Prince of Wales aircraft carrier in front of the new Forth Bridge.
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